While Broadway Market is the big food event in the area, Hackney Homemade (Sat 11am–4pm) has a growing number of enticing stalls and a lovely location by the ancient church of St John’s in Hackney. Here is some of the food you can sample, with recipes from the stallholders.
Indian favourites: first up a hot cup of chai, the basic ingredients of Assam tea, milk and sugar given intense added flavour by fennel, cardamom, cinnamon, cloves and peppercorns. And then dosas – Indian pancakes traditionally eaten for breakfast, wrapped round a subtle but mouthwatering meaty sauce. Dosa Deli served me a Kashmiri lamb dosa: an eight-hour braised shoulder of Romney Salt Marsh Lamb coated in a Kashmiri sauce, with ginger and tamarind chutney, coconut chutney, carrot, parsnip and fresh herbs. Here’s their recipe for kashmiri sauce. And here’s how to make the dosa pancake, with style!
Dark Knights of Cholesterol
Ie… cheese! From Lincolnshire farmhouse to goat and sheep cheeses to tomas from the Castelmagno valley in northern Italy. They specialise in unpasturised and rare cheeses and advise on food pairings. Here is their recipe for spring risotto with toma brusca: on the stall they use Occitan spellings for toma cheeses, as Castelmagno is a remote enclave of this ancient and endangered language.
The Hungry Wolf
The speciality here, inspired by the stallholder’s Sicilian American relative, is sweet and decorative cannoli. But the Hungry Wolf is sensibly keeping his recipe under wraps, so instead he told Eat Hackney how to make another dish you’ll find on the stall: polenta with polpettine (meatballs).